Scorpion Care Guide (2026)

Scorpion Care Guide (2026)

Scorpions are increasingly popular in the hobby — visually striking, low-maintenance compared to many other invertebrates, and available in species suited to a wide range of keeper experience levels. The most commonly kept species fall into two broad ecological groups: tropical forest scorpions (Emperor, Asian Forest, Dictator, Tanzanian Red-Clawed, Malaysian Black, Javanese Jungle) and desert scorpions (Desert Hairy, Large-Clawed). These groups have meaningfully different husbandry requirements, particularly around humidity and substrate.

This guide covers the shared husbandry principles that apply across commonly kept species. For species-specific care, see the individual species guides linked below.

Is a Scorpion Right for You?

Scorpions are display animals first. Most species tolerate minimal handling and some should not be handled at all. They are not interactive pets in the way that some reptiles or jumping spiders are. What they offer is a fascinating, low-maintenance animal with a long lifespan and a genuinely impressive presence in a well-set-up enclosure.

All scorpions are venomous. Venom significance varies substantially by species and should be researched individually before acquiring any scorpion. Anyone with venom allergies should consult a physician before keeping scorpions.

See Best Scorpions for Beginners for a full assessment of which species are most appropriate for new keepers.

The Two Ecological Groups

Tropical Forest Scorpions

Species: Emperor Scorpion, Asian Forest Scorpion, Dictator Scorpion, Tanzanian Red-Clawed Scorpion, Malaysian Black Scorpion, Javanese Jungle Scorpion

  • High humidity: 70–80%+
  • Deep, moisture-retentive, burrowable substrate — coconut fiber, coco-based mixes, or similar
  • Temperatures: 75–85°F
  • Solitary housing is the standard recommendation; communal keeping has been practiced with some species under specific conditions but carries cannibalism and injury risk and is not recommended for new keepers

Desert Scorpions

Species: Desert Hairy Scorpion, Large-Clawed Scorpion

  • Low humidity: 30–40%
  • Deep, dry, sandy or sandy-mix substrate for burrowing
  • Temperatures: 80–90°F with a warm side gradient
  • Solitary housing required

Enclosure

Scorpions need secure enclosures with tight-fitting lids. Scorpions are capable escape artists and may climb silicone seams, textured surfaces, and enclosure furnishings. Front-opening enclosures are preferred for tropical species; top-opening enclosures work for desert species provided ventilation is adequate.

  • Single small scorpion (under 3 inches): 5–10 gallon equivalent
  • Single large scorpion (Emperor, Asian Forest, Desert Hairy): 10–20 gallon equivalent; floor space matters more than height for terrestrial species

For detailed sizing by species, see the Scorpion Enclosure Size Guide.

→ Best Tarantula & Invertebrate Enclosures

Substrate

Substrate is one of the most important husbandry decisions for scorpions, and it differs substantially between ecological groups.

Tropical Forest Species

Require deep (4–6+ inches), moisture-retentive substrate that holds burrows and maintains humidity. Coconut fiber (coir) is the most widely recommended base — alone or mixed with organic topsoil, sphagnum moss, or similar materials. The substrate should be damp enough to hold a burrow but not waterlogged.

Desert Species

Require deep (4–6+ inches), dry, sandy or sandy-mix substrate. Play sand, reptile sand, or sand mixed with organic topsoil works well. Avoid substrates that retain moisture.

→ Best Coconut Fiber Substrate | Best Tarantula & Invertebrate Substrate

Temperature and Heating

Most commonly kept scorpions do well at room temperature in many homes, but a heat source is needed if ambient temperatures fall below the species' preferred range.

  • Tropical forest species: 75–85°F; a low-wattage heat mat on the side of the enclosure (not underneath — scorpions burrow and can overheat) is appropriate if supplemental heat is needed
  • Desert species: 80–90°F with a warm-side gradient; a heat mat or low-wattage heat lamp can provide the gradient

All heat sources should be thermostat-controlled. Verify temperatures with a reliable thermometer rather than relying on the heat source's dial.

→ Best Reptile Thermostats | Best Invertebrate Thermometers

Humidity

Humidity requirements differ sharply between ecological groups. Monitor with a reliable hygrometer placed at substrate level rather than at the top of the enclosure.

  • Tropical forest species: 70–80%+; maintain by keeping part of the substrate damp and providing a water dish; mist one side of the enclosure periodically to maintain a humidity gradient
  • Desert species: 30–40%; a small water dish is sufficient; avoid misting

→ Best Invertebrate Water Dishes

Feeding

Scorpions are carnivores that eat live prey in the wild. In captivity, appropriately sized live or pre-killed insects are the standard diet. Crickets, dubia roaches, and mealworms are the most commonly used feeders.

Prey should be no larger than the scorpion's carapace (the flat plate behind the head). Oversized prey can injure the scorpion, particularly during molt. Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours.

Feeding frequency varies by species, age, and temperature. Most adult scorpions do well fed every 1–2 weeks. Juveniles can be fed more frequently. Scorpions can go extended periods without food — refusal is not immediately a cause for concern.

See the Scorpion Feeding Guide for full guidance.

→ Best Feeding Tongs

Water

Provide a shallow water dish at all times. The dish should be shallow enough that the scorpion cannot drown — bottle caps or small jar lids work for juveniles; a shallow reptile dish for adults. Keep it clean and refill regularly. Tropical species may drink more frequently than desert species, which often get adequate moisture from prey.

Hides

Scorpions are secretive animals that spend most of their time hidden or burrowed. Provide at least one hide in addition to allowing burrowing. Cork bark flats, half-logs, and flat rocks are all appropriate. Tropical species often prefer to burrow; desert species may use surface hides more frequently.

→ Best Cork Bark for Invertebrates

Handling

Most scorpions are not handling animals. They are fast, defensive, and capable of stinging. Some large tropical species — particularly Emperor Scorpions — are more tolerant of handling than others, but even calm individuals can sting without warning. Handle only when necessary (enclosure maintenance, health checks) and use appropriate tools.

See the Scorpion Handling Guide for full guidance.

Molting

Scorpions molt periodically throughout their lives. A pre-molt scorpion may refuse food, become less active, and seal itself in its burrow. Do not disturb a molting scorpion and remove all live prey from the enclosure — a freshly molted scorpion is soft and vulnerable. See the Scorpion Molting Guide.

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