Scorpion Feeding Guide
Scorpions are carnivores that primarily eat appropriately sized invertebrate prey. In captivity, live feeder insects are standard, although some individuals will accept pre-killed prey. Feeding is straightforward once you understand prey sizing, frequency, and how to feed safely. The most common feeding mistakes are offering prey that is too large, leaving uneaten prey in the enclosure, and feeding too soon after a molt.
What to Feed
The most commonly used feeder insects for scorpions are:
- Crickets — widely available, accepted by most species; gut-load before feeding for better nutrition
- Dubia roaches — nutritious, less likely to injure the scorpion than crickets, and easier to maintain in a colony; a good primary feeder for most species
- Mealworms — useful for smaller species or juveniles; lower nutritional value than crickets or roaches as a sole diet
- Waxworms — high fat content; useful as an occasional treat or to stimulate a reluctant feeder, not as a staple
Pre-killed prey is an option for scorpions that accept it and reduces the risk of prey injuring the animal. Many scorpions prefer live prey and will ignore pre-killed items, particularly if they are not hungry.
Prey Sizing
Prey should be no larger than the scorpion's carapace — the flat plate behind the head. Oversized prey can injure the scorpion, particularly during or after a molt when the exoskeleton is soft. When in doubt, go smaller rather than larger.
- Juveniles: appropriately sized small crickets or dubia nymphs
- Sub-adults and adults: medium to large crickets or appropriately sized dubia roaches
- Very large species (Dictator, large Emperor): can take larger prey items as adults
- Small species (Large-Clawed Scorpion): prey should be correspondingly small throughout life
Feeding Frequency
- Juveniles: every 5–7 days
- Sub-adults: every 7–10 days
- Adults: every 1–2 weeks
These are guidelines, not rigid schedules. Feeding frequency is influenced by temperature (scorpions eat less at lower temperatures), season, pre-molt status, and individual variation. A scorpion that refuses food occasionally is not a cause for concern.
How to Feed Safely
- Use feeding tongs to offer prey — this keeps your hand out of the enclosure and reduces the risk of a defensive sting
- Feed at night or in low light when scorpions are naturally more active
- Do not handle the scorpion before or after feeding
- Remove all uneaten prey within 24 hours. Live insects left in the enclosure will stress the scorpion and can bite or injure it, particularly during pre-molt or after a molt
- Never feed during pre-molt or within 1–2 weeks after a molt — the scorpion is vulnerable and live prey is a serious risk
Feeding and Temperature
Scorpion metabolism is temperature-dependent. Animals kept at the lower end of their temperature range will eat less frequently and may refuse food for extended periods. If your scorpion's enclosure is running cool, address the temperature before assuming there is a feeding problem.
Gut-Loading and Supplementation
Feeder insects should be gut-loaded — fed nutritious food for 24–48 hours before being offered to the scorpion. This improves the nutritional value of the prey. Calcium and vitamin supplementation is less established for scorpions than for reptiles; most keepers focus on gut-loading rather than dusting prey.
When Scorpions Refuse Food
Food refusal is normal and common. The most frequent causes are:
- Pre-molt — the most common reason for sudden food refusal in juveniles and sub-adults; see the Scorpion Molting Guide
- Temperature too low — check enclosure temperatures
- Recently molted — scorpions often refuse food for 1–2 weeks after a molt
- Stress — recent transport, enclosure changes, or disturbance
- Seasonal variation — some scorpions eat less during cooler months
- Simply not hungry — healthy scorpions can sometimes go weeks or longer without feeding, particularly around molts or during periods of reduced activity
See Scorpion Not Eating for a full troubleshooting guide.