Complete Arachnid Setup Checklist: Everything You Need Before Getting a Tarantula or Jumping Spider

Complete Arachnid Setup Checklist: Everything You Need Before Getting a Tarantula or Jumping Spider

Arachnids are among the most low-maintenance pets in the hobby — but "low-maintenance" doesn't mean "no setup." Getting the enclosure right before the animal arrives is the most important thing you can do. This checklist covers both silos: tarantulas and jumping spiders. The equipment lists are short compared to reptiles or reef tanks, but the details matter.

Not sure which arachnid is right for you yet? Start with the Tarantula Care Guide or Jumping Spider Care Guide first.

Choose Your Silo

Tarantula Setup

Tarantulas are one of the most beginner-friendly exotic pets available — they require no heating in most homes, no UVB, no live plants, and minimal daily interaction. The setup is simple; the key is getting enclosure type, substrate depth, and ventilation right for the species.

1. Enclosure

Tarantula enclosure requirements depend on whether the species is terrestrial, fossorial (burrowing), or arboreal.

  • Terrestrial enclosures — wider than tall; floor space is the priority. Most beginner species (Mexican Red Knee, Curly Hair, Chilean Rose, Arizona Blonde) are terrestrial. A clear acrylic or plastic enclosure with cross-ventilation is the standard.
  • Fossorial enclosures — deeper substrate is the priority; the tarantula will spend most of its time underground. True fossorial species excavate deep burrows and are rarely seen at the surface.
  • Arboreal enclosures — taller than wide; vertical space and anchor points for webbing. Pink Toe Tarantulas are arboreal and need height and cork bark or branches to climb and web.

Not sure what size enclosure your species needs? See the Tarantula Enclosure Size Guide for sizing by species type and life stage.

Ventilation is critical. Cross-ventilation (side vents + top vents) prevents stagnant air and mold. Enclosures with only top ventilation are less effective.

→ Best Tarantula Enclosures

2. Substrate

Substrate serves multiple functions: it allows burrowing, maintains appropriate humidity at depth, and provides a naturalistic surface. The standard mix for most tarantulas is coconut fiber, peat moss, and/or topsoil — slightly moist at depth, drier at the surface.

  • Terrestrial species — 4–6 inches of substrate; enough to burrow partially but not so deep the tarantula can't reach the surface
  • Fossorial species — 8–12+ inches; the tarantula will excavate a burrow and spend most of its time underground
  • Arboreal species — 2–3 inches is sufficient; floor substrate is less important than vertical structure

Avoid: sand-only substrate (dries out, doesn't hold burrow structure), calcium sand, cedar or pine products.

→ Best Tarantula Substrate

3. Hides & Decor

A hide is important for all tarantulas. Even species that don't burrow benefit from a retreat — a tarantula without cover is more likely to be stressed and defensive.

  • Cork bark — the most versatile hide option; works for terrestrial, fossorial, and arboreal species; holds moisture slightly and looks naturalistic
  • Half-log or curved cork tube — for arboreal species; provides an anchor point for webbing and a retreat
  • Artificial decor — optional; keep it minimal and ensure nothing can fall and injure the tarantula during a molt

Remove or secure any decor before a molt — a tarantula on its back during a molt is vulnerable to injury from falling objects.

→ Best Tarantula Hides | Best Cork Bark for Tarantulas | Best Tarantula Decor

4. Water Dish

All tarantulas should have access to a water dish. Even species from arid environments drink when water is available. Use a dish sized appropriately for the tarantula — bottle caps work for spiderlings; a small shallow ceramic dish for juveniles and adults.

Change the water and clean the dish weekly. Remove any substrate or prey remains that fall in.

→ Best Tarantula Water Dishes

5. Temperature & Humidity

Most tarantulas kept in captivity do not require supplemental heating. Room temperature (68–78°F) is appropriate for the majority of commonly kept species. Avoid placing enclosures in direct sunlight or near heat sources.

Humidity requirements vary by species:

  • Arid/desert species (Mexican Red Knee, Arizona Blonde, Chilean Rose, Green Bottle Blue) — dry enclosure with good ventilation; keep one corner of the substrate slightly moist at depth; a full water dish is sufficient
  • Species with higher humidity needs (Pink Toe, Curly Hair) — slightly higher ambient humidity; overflow the water dish occasionally to moisten one side of the substrate

Never mist directly onto the tarantula. Avoid keeping the entire enclosure wet — stagnant moisture causes mold and can create unhealthy conditions.

→ Best Tarantula Thermometers

6. Feeding Equipment

Tarantulas eat live prey — primarily crickets, dubia roaches, and mealworms depending on the tarantula's size. Feeding tongs are a useful tool for offering prey and removing uneaten insects without reaching into the enclosure, though some keepers drop prey in directly.

  • Prey size — offer prey no larger than the tarantula's abdomen; oversized prey can injure a tarantula, especially around a molt
  • Feeding frequency — varies significantly by species, size, temperature, and body condition; let the tarantula's body condition guide you rather than following a fixed schedule
  • Premolt and post-molt — stop feeding when premolt signs are present (darkened abdomen, refusing food, sealing the burrow); after a molt, wait until the fangs have fully hardened before offering prey again

Remove all uneaten prey within 24 hours. Live prey left in the enclosure during or after a molt can injure a vulnerable tarantula.

→ Best Tarantula Feeding Tongs

Tarantula Pre-Arrival Checklist

  • ✅ Enclosure assembled with appropriate ventilation
  • ✅ Substrate at correct depth and moisture level
  • ✅ Hide in place
  • ✅ Water dish filled and in place
  • ✅ Temperature at room temperature (68–78°F)
  • ✅ First prey items sourced (appropriately sized)
  • ✅ Enclosure lid secure

→ Best Tarantula Starter Kits

Jumping Spider Setup

Jumping spiders are the most personable arachnids in the hobby — curious, visually oriented, and genuinely interactive with their keepers. Their setup is even simpler than a tarantula's, but ventilation and prey size are the two areas where beginners most commonly go wrong.

1. Enclosure

Jumping spiders are arboreal and need height more than floor space. They web hammock-style retreats near the top of the enclosure and hunt from elevated positions.

  • Minimum size: 8–10 inches tall for an adult; taller is better
  • Ventilation: cross-ventilation is essential — jumping spiders are highly sensitive to stagnant air and will decline quickly in poorly ventilated enclosures. Mesh panels on multiple sides are preferred.
  • Lid security: jumping spiders are escape artists; ensure the lid closes securely

→ Best Jumping Spider Enclosures

2. Substrate & Decor

Jumping spiders don't burrow, so substrate is primarily aesthetic and helps maintain a small amount of ambient humidity. Coco fiber or paper towel works well. Keep it thin — 1–2 inches is sufficient.

Decor and climbing structure matter more than substrate for jumping spiders:

  • Cork bark or branches — provides climbing surfaces and anchor points for webbing
  • Artificial plants — adds visual complexity and gives the spider places to hunt from
  • Avoid clutter at the top — jumping spiders web their retreat near the top of the enclosure; leave space for this

→ Best Jumping Spider Decor & Climbing Accessories

3. Temperature & Humidity

Jumping spiders thrive at room temperature (68–78°F) in most homes. No supplemental heating is required.

Humidity: jumping spiders need moderate humidity but good airflow. Lightly mist one side of the enclosure every 2–3 days — this provides drinking water and maintains ambient humidity without creating stagnant conditions. A small misting bottle is all you need.

→ Best Jumping Spider Misting Bottles

4. Feeding

Jumping spiders are active hunters that eat live prey. They are visual predators — they stalk and pounce, which makes feeding genuinely entertaining to watch.

  • Prey types: fruit flies (Drosophila) for spiderlings and juveniles; small crickets, bottle flies, and blue bottle flies for adults
  • Prey size: offer prey no larger than the spider's abdomen; jumping spiders can be injured by oversized prey
  • Feeding frequency: every 2–3 days for juveniles; every 3–5 days for adults — adjust based on body condition and appetite
  • Remove uneaten prey after 24 hours

→ Best Jumping Spider Food & Feeders

Jumping Spider Pre-Arrival Checklist

  • ✅ Enclosure assembled with cross-ventilation confirmed
  • ✅ Thin substrate layer in place
  • ✅ Cork bark or climbing decor in place
  • ✅ Lid secure
  • ✅ Temperature at room temperature (68–78°F)
  • ✅ Misting bottle filled with dechlorinated water
  • ✅ First prey items sourced (appropriately sized)

Species-Specific Shortcuts

Species Care Guide Key Setup Notes
Mexican Red Knee Mexican Red Knee Care Guide Terrestrial, 4–6" substrate, dry surface, room temp, docile beginner species
Curly Hair Curly Hair Care Guide Terrestrial, 4–6" substrate, slightly higher humidity, very calm beginner species
Chaco Golden Knee Chaco Golden Knee Care Guide Terrestrial, enthusiastic burrower — provide deep substrate, slow-growing, excellent temperament
Chilean Rose Chilean Rose Care Guide Terrestrial, dry setup, very hardy, may fast for extended periods
Arizona Blonde Arizona Blonde Care Guide Terrestrial, dry setup, North American native, calm temperament
Brazilian Black Brazilian Black Care Guide Terrestrial, moderate humidity, slow-growing, exceptional temperament
Green Bottle Blue Green Bottle Blue Care Guide Terrestrial heavy webber, dry with good ventilation, humid burrow, fast-moving, stunning coloration
Pink Toe Pink Toe Care Guide Arboreal, tall enclosure, cork tube hide, moderate humidity, good ventilation
Jumping Spider Jumping Spider Care Guide Tall mesh enclosure, cross-ventilation essential, room temp, live prey
Regal Jumping Spider Regal Jumping Spider Care Guide Largest common jumping spider; same setup as above, larger prey as adult

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