Tarantula Care Guide

Tarantula Care Guide

Tarantulas are among the most rewarding exotic pets available — long-lived, low-maintenance, and endlessly varied in appearance and behavior. Whether you are setting up your first enclosure or expanding an existing collection, this guide covers the core principles that apply across the most commonly kept species.

Quick Answers

Choosing a Species

The right starting point is choosing a species suited to your experience level and expectations. New World terrestrial species — particularly those in the genera Brachypelma, Grammostola, and Aphonopelma — are the most beginner-friendly. They are slow-moving, calm, and forgiving of minor husbandry mistakes. Old World species and arboreal species are generally faster, more defensive, and better suited to experienced keepers.

Not sure where to start? For most beginners, we recommend one of four species:

See our full Tarantula Species Guide to compare all species side by side, or jump directly to a species care guide below.

Enclosure

Match the enclosure type to the species. Terrestrial species need floor space more than height — a 12" × 12" × 10" enclosure is a common adult size for most beginner species. Arboreal species need height and vertical anchor points. Avoid enclosures that are excessively tall for terrestrial species, as falls can be fatal.

  • Substrate depth: At least 4–6 inches for terrestrial species to allow burrowing.
  • Ventilation: Cross-ventilation — side and top vents — prevents stagnant air without dropping humidity too aggressively.
  • Hide: Always provide at least one hide. Cork bark flats and half-logs work well for most species.
  • Water dish: A shallow water dish should be available at all times for adults and sub-adults.

See our Best Tarantula Enclosures, Best Tarantula Substrate, Best Tarantula Hides, and Best Tarantula Decor guides.

Temperature

Most commonly kept tarantulas do well at normal room temperature — 68–80°F covers the majority of species. Supplemental heating is rarely needed in most homes. Avoid heat mats placed under the enclosure, as they can overheat the substrate and drive the spider to the surface. If your home is consistently below the recommended range, warming the room is generally preferable to heating the enclosure directly. A reliable thermometer helps you monitor conditions accurately. See our Best Tarantula Thermometers guide.

Humidity

Humidity requirements vary by species, but the most common mistake is keeping enclosures too wet. Most beginner-recommended species — particularly Grammostola, Brachypelma, and Aphonopelma — do best in a mostly dry enclosure with a moisture gradient rather than a specific ambient humidity target. Overflow one corner of the water dish every couple of weeks to lightly moisten one area of the substrate and allow the rest to remain dry. Good ventilation is generally more important than chasing a humidity percentage.

Substrate

A mix of coconut fiber (coco coir) and organic topsoil is suitable for most terrestrial species. Peat moss can be added for moisture retention in species that prefer slightly higher humidity. Sand can be added for desert species like the Arizona Blonde. The substrate should hold a burrow shape when compressed but not be compacted or waterlogged. See our Best Tarantula Substrate guide for specific product recommendations.

Feeding

Feed appropriately sized prey — no larger than the spider's abdomen. Crickets, dubia roaches, and mealworms are the most commonly used feeders. Feed spiderlings every 5–7 days and adults every 7–14 days. Always remove uneaten prey within 24 hours to prevent stress and injury, particularly during molting. Never feed during or immediately after a molt.

Extended fasting is normal for many New World tarantulas, especially slow-growing species. A spider that refuses food for weeks or months is not necessarily ill — check for pre-molt signs and ensure husbandry is correct before drawing conclusions. See our Best Tarantula Feeding Tongs guide.

Water

Always provide a shallow water dish for adults and sub-adults. Provide a shallow water dish that the spider can easily access. Refresh water every 2–3 days to prevent bacterial growth. See our Best Tarantula Water Dishes guide.

Handling

New World species are generally more tolerant of handling than Old World species, but routine handling is not recommended for any tarantula. Even a short fall can be fatal, particularly for heavy-bodied species. When handling is appropriate, always stay close to the ground or a flat surface, read body language carefully, and avoid handling during pre-molt or within 2 weeks post-molt. New World species possess urticating hairs that can cause skin and eye irritation — wash hands after handling and avoid touching your face.

Molting

Molting is how tarantulas grow. Signs include reduced appetite, lethargy, a darkening abdomen, and the spider flipping onto its back. Remove all live prey when pre-molt signs appear and do not disturb the spider. Leave the water dish in place. After molting, wait at least 2 weeks before offering food to allow the new exoskeleton to fully harden. See our full Tarantula Molting Guide.

Lifespan

Female tarantulas are significantly longer-lived than males across all species. Many beginner-recommended species have female lifespans of 15–30+ years. Males typically live 5–10 years and decline rapidly after reaching sexual maturity. This lifespan difference is why captive-bred females command higher prices in the hobby. See our Tarantula Lifespan guide for species-specific data.

Common Health Issues

Most health problems in captive tarantulas are husbandry-related. The most common issues are dehydration (indicated by a shrunken abdomen), failed molts linked to low humidity or disturbance, and injuries from live prey left in the enclosure. A noticeably shrunken abdomen usually indicates dehydration and should prompt you to check that fresh water is available and the enclosure provides an appropriate moisture gradient. See our Tarantula Diseases & Health guide for more detail.

Species Care Guides

Each species has its own care guide with species-specific enclosure sizes, humidity, feeding frequency, lifespan data, and buying guidance. Browse the full Tarantula Species Guide or jump directly to a species:

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