Tarantula Feeding Guide
Feeding is one of the most straightforward aspects of tarantula keeping — and one of the most commonly overthought. Tarantulas are ambush predators with slow metabolisms, and most beginner-recommended species require far less food than new keepers expect. This guide covers prey selection, feeding frequency, fasting, and the most common feeding mistakes.
What Do Tarantulas Eat?
In captivity, tarantulas are fed live invertebrate prey. The most commonly used feeders are:
- Dubia roaches — the preferred feeder for many keepers; nutritious, quiet, slow-moving, and cannot climb smooth surfaces
- Crickets — widely available and accepted by most species, but can be noisy and escape easily
- Mealworms — useful for smaller tarantulas and picky eaters; high in fat so best used as a supplement rather than a staple
- Superworms — suitable for large adults as an occasional treat; more active than mealworms
- Waxworms — high in fat; use sparingly as an occasional treat to stimulate appetite in fasting spiders
- Fruit flies (Drosophila) — essential for spiderlings too small to take crickets
As a general rule, prey should be no larger than the tarantula's abdomen. Very large prey increases stress and the risk of injury, particularly around molts.
Feeding Frequency by Life Stage
Tarantulas do not need to be fed daily. Overfeeding is a more common problem than underfeeding in captive tarantulas. Individual tarantulas vary, so body condition is a better guide than a strict calendar.
- Spiderlings (under 1 inch): Every 4–7 days. Offer appropriately sized prey — fruit flies or pinhead crickets for very small slings.
- Juveniles (1–3 inches): Every 5–7 days. Small crickets, small dubia roaches, or small mealworms.
- Sub-adults and adults: Every 7–14 days. A single appropriately sized prey item per feeding is sufficient for most species.
Slow-growing species like Grammostola, Brachypelma, and Aphonopelma have lower metabolic rates and can be fed toward the lower end of these ranges. Faster-growing species like Chromatopelma and Avicularia may benefit from more frequent feeding as juveniles.
How to Feed
Drop live prey directly into the enclosure near the spider's hide or burrow entrance. Most tarantulas will take prey within a few hours. If the spider does not respond within 24 hours, remove the prey item. Never leave live prey unattended in the enclosure overnight — crickets in particular will bite a resting or molting tarantula and can cause serious injury.
Use feeding tongs to place prey precisely and to avoid putting your hand inside the enclosure unnecessarily. See our Best Tarantula Feeding Tongs guide for recommendations.
Fasting — When Tarantulas Refuse Food
Extended fasting is one of the most common concerns among new tarantula keepers, and one of the least understood. Many species — particularly slow-growing New World tarantulas — will routinely refuse food for weeks, months, or in some cases longer. This is normal behavior and should not be confused with illness.
Common reasons a tarantula may refuse food:
- Pre-molt — the most common cause; the spider is preparing to shed its exoskeleton and will not eat
- Seasonal slowdown — some species reduce activity and appetite during cooler months even in captivity
- Stress — recent rehousing, disturbance, or environmental changes can suppress appetite temporarily
- Satiation — the spider is simply not hungry
If your tarantula refuses food, remove the prey item, wait 1–2 weeks, and offer again. Do not attempt to force-feed. Check for pre-molt signs — a darkening abdomen and lethargy are the most reliable indicators. Ensure husbandry is correct: appropriate temperature, a water dish available, and a moisture gradient in the substrate.
Pre-Molt and Feeding
Stop offering food as soon as pre-molt signs appear. A tarantula in pre-molt will not eat, and live prey left in the enclosure poses a serious risk. Remove all prey items and do not offer food again until after the molt is complete and the fangs have fully darkened — typically 1–2 weeks post-molt for most species, longer for large adults. See our Tarantula Molting Guide for full details.
Signs of a Healthy Appetite vs. Concern
A well-fed tarantula will have a rounded, plump abdomen. A noticeably shrunken or wrinkled abdomen can indicate dehydration or prolonged fasting that warrants attention — ensure fresh water is always available and the enclosure has a moisture gradient. A spider that refuses food but has a full, healthy abdomen is usually healthy and is often approaching a molt or simply not hungry.
Gut-Loading and Prey Nutrition
The nutritional value of feeder insects depends on what they have been fed. Gut-loading — feeding prey insects a nutritious diet for 24–48 hours before offering them to your tarantula — improves the nutritional content of each meal. Feeders should be provided a varied, nutritious diet before use. Commercial gut-load diets and fresh vegetables are both suitable.
Water
A shallow water dish should always be available for adults and sub-adults alongside regular feeding. Tarantulas drink more than many keepers realize, and dehydration is a more common health issue than starvation. See our Best Tarantula Water Dishes guide.