Regal Jumping Spider Care Guide (Phidippus regius)
The Regal Jumping Spider (Phidippus regius) is the most widely kept jumping spider in captivity and one of the best exotic pets available for beginners. It is large, bold, highly interactive, and genuinely curious — qualities that have made it the flagship species of the jumping spider hobby. This guide covers everything you need to keep a P. regius successfully.
Species Overview
- Scientific name: Phidippus regius
- Common name: Regal Jumping Spider
- Adult size: Females 15–22mm; males 10–15mm
- Lifespan: Females 2–3 years; males 1–1.5 years
- Origin: Southeastern United States, Caribbean islands
- Difficulty: Beginner
Whenever possible, choose a captive-bred Phidippus regius. Captive-bred spiders are generally healthier, easier to acclimate, and reduce pressure on wild populations.
Enclosure
Phidippus regius is an arboreal species that needs vertical space more than floor area. A front-opening enclosure with cross-ventilation on multiple sides is the standard. Minimum recommended size for an adult female is 8" x 8" x 12", though larger enclosures are always better for an active species.
- Ventilation: Cross-ventilation is essential. Top-only ventilation is inadequate and can lead to humidity buildup and respiratory issues.
- Access: Front-opening doors are strongly preferred. P. regius builds sleeping sacs near the top of the enclosure, and opening from above disturbs their retreat.
- Security: P. regius is an excellent escape artist. All gaps must be sealed.
- Spiderlings: House in a small acrylic enclosure or ventilated deli cup. Upgrade as the spider grows.
See our Best Jumping Spider Enclosures guide for top picks.
Temperature
Phidippus regius does well at normal room temperature — 72–80°F is ideal. Florida and Caribbean populations are accustomed to warmer conditions and may be more active at the higher end of this range. Supplemental heating is not required in most homes. Avoid sustained temperatures above 85°F.
Humidity
Moderate room humidity (roughly 40–60%) with light misting every 2–3 days is appropriate for P. regius. Mist one side of the enclosure to provide drinking water as droplets on the walls. Allow the enclosure to dry completely between mistings. Sustained high humidity leads to mold, bacterial growth, and respiratory problems.
See our Best Jumping Spider Misting Bottles guide for top picks.
Lighting
No UVB lighting is required. Ambient room light is sufficient. P. regius is diurnal and benefits from a natural day/night light cycle — avoid keeping the enclosure in complete darkness during the day or under constant artificial light at night.
Handling
Phidippus regius is one of the few spiders that often tolerates gentle handling. Many individuals will willingly walk onto a keeper's hand, but interaction should always be on the spider's terms. Never force handling, and avoid handling during pre-molt or immediately after a molt when the exoskeleton is still hardening.
Feeding
Phidippus regius is an active, enthusiastic hunter. Feed every 2–3 days and offer prey roughly the size of the spider's abdomen or slightly smaller. Variety improves nutrition and keeps the spider engaged. A well-fed jumping spider typically has a rounded abdomen — a noticeably shrunken abdomen is a sign it's time to feed or provide water.
- Spiderlings: Fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster, then D. hydei)
- Juveniles: Fruit flies (D. hydei), small crickets, small mealworms
- Adults: Crickets, bottle flies, mealworms, small dubia roaches, waxworms (occasional treat)
Remove uneaten prey within a few hours. Never feed during or immediately after a molt. Adult females can take larger prey than males due to their significantly larger body size. See our Best Jumping Spider Food & Feeders guide.
Decor & Enrichment
P. regius is one of the most active and exploratory jumping spider species. A well-furnished enclosure keeps the spider engaged and makes it more interesting to observe.
- Cork bark tube near the top for sleeping sac placement
- Artificial vines and plants for climbing routes and anchor points
- Magnetic ledges for elevated hunting perches
- Branches at varying heights for a three-dimensional environment
See our Best Jumping Spider Decor & Climbing Accessories guide.
Sexing
Adult P. regius are sexually dimorphic and relatively easy to sex. Females are significantly larger and typically have orange or white patterning on the abdomen. Males are smaller with iridescent chelicerae (fangs) that appear blue, green, or purple depending on the light. Juveniles can be difficult to sex reliably until they are sub-adult or adult. Female P. regius are generally the most sought-after in the hobby because they live significantly longer and reach a larger adult size than males.
Molting
Before a molt, P. regius will seal itself inside a thickened sleeping sac and become inactive for days to weeks. Do not disturb the enclosure, offer food, or mist near the sac entrance during this period. After molting, wait until the new exoskeleton has fully hardened — typically 5–7 days — before offering prey. Failed molts can be associated with dehydration, injury, nutritional issues, or other health problems. Disturbing a spider during a molt can also increase the risk of complications. See our Jumping Spider Molting Guide for full details.
Lifespan
Female P. regius commonly live 2–3 years with good care. Males have a shorter lifespan of approximately 1–1.5 years. Lifespan is significantly affected by temperature — warmer conditions accelerate metabolism and shorten lifespan, while cooler conditions within the acceptable range may extend it. See our Jumping Spider Lifespan guide.
Health & Common Issues
- Dehydration: Ensure misting is consistent and water droplets are available regularly. A shrunken abdomen is an early sign.
- Failed molts: Can be associated with dehydration, injury, nutritional issues, or disturbance during the molt. Leave the spider completely undisturbed during the process.
- Injuries from prey: Always remove uneaten prey promptly. Crickets in particular can injure a spider, especially during or after a molt.
- Appetite loss: Problems with appetite are often related to pre-molt, temperature, or dehydration. See our Jumping Spider Not Eating guide for a complete troubleshooting checklist.
See our Jumping Spider Diseases & Health guide for more detail.
Quick Reference
| Parameter | Recommended Range |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 72–80°F |
| Humidity | 40–60% ambient; mist every 2–3 days |
| Lighting | Ambient room light; no UVB required |
| Enclosure (adult female) | 8" x 8" x 12" minimum |
| Feeding frequency | Every 2–3 days |
| Lifespan (female) | 2–3 years |
| Lifespan (male) | 1–1.5 years |
Related Guides
- Jumping Spider Care Guide
- Jumping Spider Species Guide
- Best Jumping Spider Enclosures
- Best Jumping Spider Food & Feeders
- Best Jumping Spider Misting Bottles
- Best Jumping Spider Decor & Climbing Accessories
- Jumping Spider Molting Guide
- Jumping Spider Lifespan
- Jumping Spider Not Eating
- Jumping Spider Diseases & Health