Jumping Spider Diseases & Health
Jumping spiders are generally hardy animals when kept correctly, but health problems do occur. Unlike reptiles and amphibians, documented infectious diseases in captive jumping spiders are relatively uncommon. Most health problems result from dehydration, injury, poor husbandry, or complications during molting. This guide covers the most common health problems, how to identify them, and what to do.
Signs of a Healthy Jumping Spider
- Rounded, full abdomen
- Active and alert during the day
- Tracks movement with its eyes
- Hunts and accepts prey regularly
- Builds and maintains a sleeping sac
- Molts successfully as a juvenile
Common Health Problems
Dehydration
Signs: Shrunken or wrinkled abdomen, lethargy, reluctance to move, food refusal.
Cause: Insufficient misting, enclosure drying out too quickly, or inadequate water droplets available for drinking.
What to do: Lightly mist one side of the enclosure immediately and allow the spider to drink. Increase misting frequency to every 1–2 days until the abdomen returns to a normal rounded shape. Dehydration is one of the most common causes of premature death in captive jumping spiders and is entirely preventable. See our Best Jumping Spider Misting Bottles guide.
Failed Molt
Signs: Spider is partially stuck in its old exoskeleton, missing limbs after a molt, deformed body segments, or death during the molting process.
Cause: Dehydration, disturbance during the molt, nutritional deficiencies, or underlying health issues.
What to do: Do not attempt to assist a spider that appears stuck — intervention almost always causes more harm. If the spider survives a failed molt, keep the enclosure within the recommended temperature range, ensure water is available, and avoid additional stress. Remove all live prey until the spider has recovered. Missing legs may regenerate at the next molt in younger spiders. See our Jumping Spider Molting Guide for prevention tips.
Injuries from Prey
Signs: Visible wounds, missing legs, reluctance to move, hiding after a feeding attempt.
Cause: Live prey left in the enclosure too long, prey that is too large, or prey introduced during or after a molt when the exoskeleton is soft.
What to do: Remove all live prey immediately. Keep the enclosure clean and undisturbed while the spider recovers. Minor injuries often heal over time, particularly in younger spiders that have future molts ahead. Always remove uneaten prey within a few hours of offering it.
Stress and Behavioral Issues
Signs: Persistent food refusal, hiding, reduced activity, failure to build a sleeping sac, erratic movement.
Cause: Enclosure too small, poor ventilation, frequent handling, recent relocation, chronic disturbance, or excessive enclosure cleaning.
What to do: Review the enclosure setup and ensure it meets minimum size and ventilation requirements. Reduce handling and disturbance. Give the spider several days of undisturbed time before reassessing. See our Best Jumping Spider Enclosures guide. For food refusal specifically, see our Jumping Spider Not Eating guide.
Mold in the Enclosure
Signs: Mold growing on decor, substrate, or enclosure walls.
Cause: Poor ventilation combined with excessive moisture from over-misting.
What to do: Improve airflow, reduce misting frequency if appropriate, and remove affected decor or substrate. Mold is not a disease of the spider itself but indicates the enclosure environment needs adjustment. Ensure the enclosure dries out between mistings.
Parasites
Signs: Small mites visible on the spider's body, unusual lethargy, weight loss despite feeding, abnormal behavior.
Cause: Introduction of wild-caught prey, contaminated substrate, or contact with wild-caught spiders.
What to do: Isolate the affected animal immediately. Avoid using wild-caught insects as feeders — this is the most common source of parasites in captive invertebrates. Consult an exotic veterinarian if one with invertebrate experience is available.
Abdominal Rupture
Signs: Visible fluid leaking from the abdomen, sudden collapse, death.
Cause: Falls from height, being dropped, or an excessively swollen abdomen from overfeeding. Jumping spiders have soft abdomens that are vulnerable to impact injury.
What to do: There is no treatment for abdominal rupture. Prevention is the only option — avoid handling spiders at height, do not overfeed to the point of an excessively swollen abdomen, and ensure the enclosure does not have dangerous drop heights inside.
Old Age Decline
Signs: Reduced activity, less frequent feeding, fading coloration, reduced coordination, spending more time in the retreat.
Cause: Natural aging. Jumping spiders have relatively short lifespans of 1–3 years depending on species and sex.
What to do: Continue providing appropriate care — consistent misting, smaller and easier prey, and minimal disturbance. An aging spider that is still hydrated and occasionally active is not in distress. See our Jumping Spider Lifespan guide.
When to See a Vet
Exotic veterinarians with invertebrate experience are rare but do exist. Consider seeking veterinary advice if your spider shows signs of confirmed parasites, severe injury, or persistent unexplained decline that cannot be attributed to husbandry issues or natural aging. Most common jumping spider health problems are husbandry-related and can be addressed by correcting the enclosure setup, misting schedule, or feeding routine.
Prevention Summary
- Mist consistently every 2–3 days to prevent dehydration
- Remove uneaten live prey within a few hours
- Feed appropriately sized prey
- Never disturb the spider during pre-molt or molt
- Use only captive-bred feeder insects to avoid parasites
- Provide an appropriately sized, well-ventilated enclosure
- Avoid handling at height or dropping the spider