Best Jumping Spider Food & Feeders (2026)
Jumping spiders are active predators with a strong feeding response. In captivity, they thrive on a varied diet of appropriately sized live insects. The key word is appropriately sized — prey that is too large can stress or injure a jumping spider, while prey that is too small won't trigger a strong hunting response. Getting the feeder size and variety right is one of the most important parts of jumping spider care.
Feeder Size Guide
| Spider Size | Recommended Feeders |
|---|---|
| Spiderling (under 1cm) | Fruit flies (Drosophila melanogaster), springtails |
| Juvenile (1–2cm) | Fruit flies (D. hydei), small crickets, small mealworms |
| Sub-adult / Adult | Crickets, bottle flies, mealworms, small dubia roaches, waxworms |
A general rule: feeders should be no larger than the spider's body length, excluding the legs. Oversized prey is stressful and can injure a jumping spider, especially during an attempted strike.
Best Feeder Options
Fruit Flies (Drosophila)
The essential feeder for spiderlings and small juveniles. Two species are commonly used: D. melanogaster (smaller, for tiny spiderlings) and D. hydei (larger, for juveniles). Flightless cultures are easy to maintain at home and provide a continuous supply. One of the few feeders you genuinely need to culture yourself or buy regularly.
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Bottle Flies / Blue Bottle Flies
A premium feeder for sub-adult and adult jumping spiders. Flying prey triggers a strong natural hunting response, making bottle flies one of the most engaging feeders you can offer. Pupae can be stored in the refrigerator and released a few at a time to control the feeding rate.
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Crickets
A staple feeder for juvenile and adult jumping spiders. Nutritious, widely available, and trigger a strong hunting response. Buy appropriately sized crickets — 1/4" for juveniles, 1/2" or smaller for adults depending on spider size. Remove uneaten crickets promptly as they can stress or injure a spider.
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Mealworms
A convenient and widely available feeder. Less nutritious than crickets or flies as a staple but useful for variety. Offer small mealworms and avoid large or old mealworms with hardened exoskeletons, which are difficult to digest. Mealworms can be kept in the refrigerator to slow their development.
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Dubia Roaches
A good feeder for larger species such as Phidippus regius, provided appropriately sized roaches are used. Soft-bodied and nutritious, though not as universally accepted by jumping spiders as flies or crickets. Dubia roaches are easy to culture at home and increasingly available from online feeder suppliers.
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Waxworms
A high-fat treat feeder. Jumping spiders typically respond enthusiastically to waxworms, but they should be offered occasionally rather than as a staple due to their high fat content. Good for conditioning or encouraging a reluctant feeder.
Browse live waxworms on Amazon
How Often to Feed
Jumping spiders have a fast metabolism and should be fed every 2–3 days. Spiderlings may need feeding more frequently — every 1–2 days — to support growth. Adults can go slightly longer between feedings. Always remove uneaten prey within a few hours to prevent stress. Never feed a jumping spider while it's molting or immediately afterward — wait until the new exoskeleton has hardened before offering prey.
Supplementation
Gut-loading feeder insects before offering them provides better overall nutrition. Unlike reptiles and amphibians, routine calcium supplementation is not considered essential for jumping spiders, though some keepers occasionally dust feeders lightly.
What to Avoid
- Prey larger than the spider's body length
- Wild-caught insects — risk of pesticide exposure and parasites
- Leaving uneaten live prey in the enclosure overnight
- Feeding waxworms as a staple — too high in fat
- Large or old mealworms with hardened exoskeletons — difficult to digest
- Feeding during or immediately after a molt