White's Tree Frog Care Guide (2026)
White's Tree Frogs (Litoria caerulea), also known as Dumpy Tree Frogs, are one of the best beginner amphibians available. Native to Australia and southern New Guinea, they are docile, hardy, long-lived, and tolerant of handling — rare qualities in the amphibian world. This guide covers everything you need to keep a White's Tree Frog healthy and thriving.
Quick Stats
- Lifespan: 15–20 years in captivity
- Adult Size: 3–4 inches (females larger than males)
- Enclosure: 18" x 18" x 24" minimum for one adult
- Temperature: 75–85°F (24–29°C) daytime, 65–75°F (18–24°C) nighttime
- Humidity: 50–80%
- Diet: Insects — crickets, dubia roaches, occasional waxworms
- Difficulty: Beginner
Enclosure Setup
White's Tree Frogs are arboreal — they climb and prefer vertical space. A tall enclosure (18" x 18" x 24" or larger) is ideal. Screen or hybrid enclosures work well as they allow airflow and help maintain humidity without becoming stagnant. Add cork bark, sturdy branches, and broad-leaf plants (real or artificial) for climbing and hiding.
Substrate
Coconut fiber, organic topsoil, or a bioactive mix are all appropriate substrates. They retain humidity well and are safe if accidentally ingested in small amounts. Avoid gravel, sand, or substrates with large particles. See our Best Amphibian Substrates guide for top picks.
Temperature & Humidity
Maintain daytime temperatures of 75–85°F with a basking spot up to 88°F. Nighttime temperatures can drop to 65–75°F. Humidity should stay between 50–80% — mist the enclosure once or twice daily. A digital hygrometer is essential for monitoring. See our Best Reptile and Amphibian Hygrometers guide.
Lighting
White's Tree Frogs benefit from a low-output UVB light (5.0 or 6% UVB). While they can survive without it, UVB supports calcium metabolism and overall health. A 12-hour light/dark cycle mimics natural conditions. See our Best UVB Lights for Amphibians guide.
Feeding
White's Tree Frogs are insectivores. Crickets and dubia roaches are the best staple feeders. Waxworms and hornworms make good occasional treats but are high in fat — don't overfeed them. Dust all feeders with calcium and vitamin D3 supplement at every feeding for juveniles, and every other feeding for adults. See our White's Tree Frog Feeding Guide for a full breakdown.
Supplements
Calcium with D3 is essential, especially if UVB lighting is not used. Dust feeders before every feeding for juveniles and every 2–3 feedings for adults. A multivitamin supplement once or twice a month rounds out their nutritional needs. See our Best Calcium and Vitamin Supplements for Amphibians guide.
Handling
White's Tree Frogs are one of the most handleable amphibians. They are calm, slow-moving, and rarely jump unpredictably. Always wash hands before and after handling — oils and residues on human skin can harm amphibians. Limit handling sessions to 10–15 minutes and avoid handling during shedding.
Common Health Issues
The most common issues are obesity (from overfeeding fatty insects), metabolic bone disease (from calcium deficiency), and bacterial or fungal infections from poor husbandry. See our White's Tree Frog Diseases Guide for symptoms and treatments.
Not Eating?
Usually caused by stress, incorrect temperature, or recent handling. See our White's Tree Frog Not Eating guide for a troubleshooting checklist.
Lifespan
With proper care, White's Tree Frogs routinely live 15–20 years — one of the longest lifespans of any commonly kept amphibian. See our White's Tree Frog Lifespan guide for what affects longevity.
Are White's Tree Frogs Good for Beginners?
Yes — they're one of the best beginner amphibians available. Read our full breakdown: Are White's Tree Frogs Good for Beginners?