African Fat-Tailed Gecko Feeding Guide

African Fat-Tailed Gecko Feeding Guide

African Fat-Tailed Geckos are insectivores with straightforward dietary needs. Get the prey type, size, frequency, and supplementation right, and your gecko will thrive for decades. This guide covers everything you need to know about feeding an AFT at every life stage.

For full care context, see the African Fat-Tailed Gecko Care Guide.

What Do African Fat-Tailed Geckos Eat?

AFTs are strict insectivores. They do not eat fruit, vegetables, or pinky mice. Their diet in captivity should consist primarily of live or recently killed insects.

Staple prey items:

  • Dubia roaches — excellent nutritional profile, low odor, easy to keep
  • Crickets — widely available, stimulate natural hunting behavior
  • Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL) — high calcium, good as a staple or supplement

Occasional treats (limit to 10–15% of diet):

  • Mealworms — less nutritious than staple feeders like dubia roaches and black soldier fly larvae; rotate rather than rely on exclusively
  • Waxworms — very high fat, use sparingly as a treat or appetite stimulant
  • Superworms — suitable for large adults occasionally

Avoid:

  • Wild-caught insects (pesticide and parasite risk)
  • Fireflies (toxic to reptiles)
  • Any insect wider than the space between the gecko's eyes

See the Complete Reptile Feeding Guide for a broader breakdown of feeder insect nutrition.

Prey Sizing

The rule of thumb: prey should be no wider than the space between the gecko's eyes. Oversized prey can cause impaction, regurgitation, and stress.

Gecko Age Prey Size Example
Hatchling (0–2 months) Extra small 1/4" crickets, small BSFL
Juvenile (2–6 months) Small 1/2" crickets, small dubias
Sub-adult (6–12 months) Medium 3/4" crickets, medium dubias
Adult (12+ months) Medium–Large Adult crickets, large dubias

Feeding Frequency

Life Stage Frequency Insects per Session
Hatchling (0–3 months) Daily or every other day 4–6
Juvenile (3–6 months) Every 2–3 days 5–8
Sub-adult (6–12 months) Every 3–4 days 6–8
Adult (12+ months) Every 5–7 days 6–10

A healthy adult AFT with a well-rounded tail has sufficient fat reserves. Do not overfeed — obesity is a real risk in captive geckos, particularly females.

Gut-Loading

Feeder insects should be gut-loaded for 24–48 hours before feeding. A well-nourished insect passes significantly more nutrition to your gecko than an empty one.

Good gut-load foods include leafy greens (collard greens, dandelion greens), squash, sweet potato, and commercial gut-load products. Avoid citrus and high-oxalate foods.

Supplementation

Supplementation is non-negotiable for long-term health. AFTs require calcium and vitamins to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) and other deficiency conditions.

Supplement Frequency Notes
Calcium with D3 Every feeding (if no UVB) Use plain calcium if UVB is provided
Calcium without D3 Every feeding (if UVB provided) Avoid D3 overdose with UVB
Multivitamin Every 2–4 feedings Rotate brands to avoid over-supplementation

Dust prey lightly — a thin coating is sufficient. Heavy dusting can reduce palatability and cause vitamin A toxicity over time.

See the Best Calcium Supplements for Reptiles and Best Vitamin Supplements for Reptiles.

How to Feed

African Fat-Tailed Geckos are crepuscular and most active at dusk and dawn. Feed in the evening for the best response.

  • Use feeding tongs to present prey and stimulate movement — this triggers the hunting response
  • Remove uneaten insects after 15–20 minutes to prevent stress and substrate disturbance
  • Feed in the enclosure or a separate feeding tub — either works, though a separate tub reduces substrate ingestion risk

See the Best Feeding Tongs for Reptiles.

Water and Hydration

Always provide a shallow water dish. AFTs drink from standing water and may soak before a shed. Change water every 1–2 days. See the Best Water Dishes for Reptiles and the Complete Reptile Hydration Guide.

Feeding Refusals

A healthy AFT that suddenly stops eating is usually not a cause for immediate concern. Common reasons include:

  • Upcoming shed — appetite drops 3–7 days before a shed; resume feeding after the shed is complete
  • Incorrect temperatures — check warm side surface temp; a gecko that can't digest properly won't eat
  • Stress — new enclosure, recent handling, or enclosure changes can suppress appetite for 1–2 weeks
  • Breeding season — adult females may refuse food during gravid periods
  • Prey boredom — try switching prey type or size
  • Overfeeding — African Fat-Tailed Geckos store fat in their tails. A gecko with a very thick, well-filled tail may simply not be hungry.

For a full troubleshooting checklist, see the African Fat-Tailed Gecko Not Eating guide.

FAQs

Can African Fat-Tailed Geckos eat mealworms as a staple?

Mealworms are less nutritious than staple feeders like dubia roaches and black soldier fly larvae and should be rotated rather than relied on exclusively. Over-reliance on mealworms is a common cause of nutritional imbalance in captive geckos.

How long can an African Fat-Tailed Gecko go without eating?

A healthy adult AFT with good fat reserves can go 2–4 weeks without eating without significant health risk. Weight loss is more important than the number of days since the last meal — if your gecko is losing visible body condition, consult a reptile vet.

Should I feed my AFT in a separate container?

Either approach works. A separate feeding tub reduces the risk of substrate ingestion and makes it easier to monitor how much your gecko is eating. Feeding in the enclosure is less disruptive and more naturalistic. Choose whichever works best for your setup.

My AFT ate the cricket but spit it out. What does that mean?

Usually prey is too large, too cold, or the gecko is in pre-shed. Check prey size, ensure the warm side is at temperature, and look for signs of an upcoming shed (dull coloration, milky eyes).

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