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Corydoras are often added to community tanks as a cleanup crew — and then forgotten about at feeding time. This is one of the most common mistakes cory owners make. Corydoras are active, hungry fish that need their own dedicated feeding with sinking foods that reach the bottom before other fish consume them. This guide covers what to feed, how often, and how to make sure your corydoras are actually getting enough to eat.
Corydoras Feeding at a Glance
| Frequency | Once daily, preferably in the evening |
| Portion size | What the fish consume in 2–3 minutes |
| Primary food | Sinking pellets, wafers, or bottom-feeder tablets |
| Supplements | Frozen bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp |
| Feeding time | Evening — corydoras are most active at dusk and after lights out |
| Remove uneaten food | Within a few hours to prevent water quality issues |
The Cleanup Crew Myth
Corydoras will consume uneaten food that sinks to the substrate, and this does help keep the tank cleaner. But they cannot survive on scraps alone. In a community tank where mid-water fish are fed flake or pellets, most food is consumed before it reaches the bottom. Corydoras that are not directly fed will gradually lose condition, become lethargic, and have shortened lifespans. Dedicated feeding is not optional — it is a basic care requirement.
When to Feed
Feed corydoras in the evening, shortly before or after the tank lights go off. Corydoras are most active at dusk and after dark, and feeding at this time ensures they have access to food when they are naturally foraging. It also reduces competition from mid-water fish that are less active in low light. Place sinking food near the group in an area where corydoras are active.
What to Feed Corydoras
Sinking Pellets and Wafers (Primary Diet)
Sinking pellets, algae wafers, and bottom-feeder tablets are the most practical primary food for corydoras. They sink quickly, stay on the substrate long enough for corydoras to find them, and are formulated to provide balanced nutrition. Look for products specifically designed for bottom-feeding catfish or omnivorous bottom dwellers. Avoid floating pellets or flake food — these are consumed by mid-water fish before corydoras can access them.
Frozen Bloodworms (Highly Recommended)
Frozen bloodworms are one of the best supplemental foods for corydoras. They are protein-rich, trigger strong feeding responses, and sink to the bottom where corydoras can access them. Thaw in a small cup of tank water before feeding. Offer 2–3 times per week. Avoid freeze-dried bloodworms as a staple — they are lower in moisture and nutritional value than frozen.
Frozen Brine Shrimp and Daphnia
Frozen brine shrimp and daphnia are excellent supplements that provide variety and support immune function. Daphnia in particular acts as a mild digestive aid. Both sink well and are appropriate for corydoras. Offer once or twice per week as part of a varied rotation.
Blanched Vegetables
Some corydoras will occasionally nibble blanched vegetables such as zucchini or cucumber, but they are primarily omnivores and should receive a quality sinking pellet as the foundation of their diet. Acceptance varies by species and individual fish. If offering vegetables, blanch briefly, allow to cool, and weigh down so they sink. Remove any uneaten matter within 24 hours.
Live Foods
Live blackworms and micro-worms are accepted eagerly by corydoras and are excellent conditioning foods. Note: live tubifex worms carry a risk of introducing disease and parasites — frozen tubifex is a safer alternative.
Foods to Avoid
- Floating flake food — consumed by mid-water fish before reaching corydoras
- Freeze-dried foods as a staple — low moisture, can cause digestive issues
- Live tubifex worms — disease risk; use frozen instead
- Overfeeding any single food type — variety supports better long-term health
How to Make Sure Corydoras Are Getting Enough Food
In a community tank, it can be difficult to tell whether corydoras are getting adequate food. Signs that corydoras are underfed include:
- Visibly thin or sunken belly
- Lethargy or reduced activity during feeding time
- Spending more time searching the substrate frantically rather than foraging calmly
- Barbel erosion progressing despite appropriate substrate — nutritional deficiency can contribute
To ensure corydoras are fed: place sinking food near the group in the evening, dim or turn off the lights to reduce competition from other fish, and observe that the corydoras are actively consuming the food rather than other fish intercepting it.
Feeding While on Vacation
Healthy adult corydoras can go 5–7 days without food without lasting harm. For short trips, it is safer to leave them unfed than to risk overfeeding. For longer absences, an automatic feeder loaded with sinking pellets set to dispense once daily in the evening is appropriate. Pre-portion food for anyone feeding on your behalf — overfeeding is a common cause of water quality crashes in community tanks.